Medieval Costume and How to Recreate It by Dorothy Hartley

Author:Dorothy Hartley
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Dover Publications
Published: 2003-04-10T16:00:00+00:00

HUNTING—ILLUSTRATIONS

(Page 56)—(D), c. 1460.—Noble in hunting dress. Note the long boots with coloured turnover tops. Note the boar-spear with its characteristic cross-bar. This prevents the spear from being engaged too deeply, and also helped to hold the wounded beast at a distance.

ARTISANS

THE craftsman must never be confused with the labourer. If you have an artisan to dress, first find out what you can about the trade-guilds, the privileges and tools of your subject, and his position as apprentice, journeyman, maker of a masterpiece, or past-master. Craftsmen worked collectively and individually. The worker engaged ‘on his own’ upon a particular job existed in those days as always. The MSS. show many varied costumes for many varied trades. Some may be made after the pattern on page 73, some by that on page 83, and we give in pattern (page 61) another form having double-strength shoulders. This curious pattern is more easily made up than described. It will be seen in the fitting to be the basis of some otherwise puzzling shoulder-cape forms. It would be very suitable for heavy trades that have much carrying or shoulder work to do. The flat pattern (page 61, No. 1) shows the front and back pieces, with the neck and shoulder cuts marked. To make the shoulder seam, the front and back pieces are overlapped rather more than the height of the neck-piece left between them. The raised neck-band is thus formed by the front and back centre pieces of the coat. The side seams and front darts up the collar-band allow for close fitting to the neck. The shoulder seams may be stitched down plainly or shaped as on page 61, No. 2. The shoulder pieces are elongated into cape-shaped straps; the comfort of this (page 61, No. 3), for the pack-carrier (page 61, No. 4), will be seen at a glance.

For anyone carrying a pole on his shoulder a little padding, inserted on the shoulder between the double thickness, will be a great comfort. And it won’t slip about.

The light wooden frame (page 61, No. 5) was used for carrying glass, and could be used for anything similar. Page 61, No. 4, is a tinker with bellows and hand-forge complete; an effective figure in a crowd. The apron (page 61, No. 6) is made from one skin, the naturally thick neck-piece making a useful pocket for the tools. A tool-bag similar to those in use to-day is shown (page 61, No. 7); the original was leather and rope, but basket-straw lined with cloth was probably used also. The coat (page 61, No. 8) is that worn by the boy in the photo under his leather apron. For his cloth hose, see pages 39 ff.; his cap (page 61, No. 9) is made like a modern tam-o’-shanter. The whole round top and the under circle are sewn together around the rim; turned inside out; and fastened down on to the deep band, which goes two-thirds round the back of the head. This band is

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